Collecting inn Indonesia
by Neil Fahy
In September of 1994 I took a two week
cruise to visit the islands of the Lesser Sunda -- Bali and
the islands eastward to Alor, south to Savu and north to Sulawesi
(Celebes). The trip was near the end of the dry season and not
a good time for snailing.
Indonesia is a land of contrasts. The
13,700-island archipelago stretches for 4,000 miles -- the distance
from San Francisco to Bermuda. If the western tip of Sumatra
were at San Francisco, Bali would be at St. Louis, Alor at New
York City, Savu at Charlotte, NC, and our port in Sulawesi at
Toronto. Although it is a large country, it is mostly water
-- the Indonesians call their country "Our Land Water."
The population is over 175 million, the
fifth most populous country in the world, with 90% living in
Sumatra, Java, and Bali. These three islands contain some of
the most densely inhabited regions on earth, yet few places
on earth are as sparsely settled as Kalimantan (Borneo) and
Irian Jaya (western New Guinea). Indonesia is one of the few
places where the four major religions of Islam, Christianity,
Buddhism, and Hinduism are represented, but many tribal peoples
still adhere to animistic beliefs.
The geology is also varied, with volcanoes,
coral reefs, and remnants of former continents. Throughout much
of Indonesia, at least one volcano is in view. The Greater Sunda
has wet rain forest while the Lesser Sunda (where I went) is
dry. The very fitting motto of the Republic is "Unity in
The malacologist Alan Solem wrote, "While
the terrestrial vertebrates of Borneo are Malaysian in affinity,
and Wallace's Line between Borneo and Celebes separates a distinctly
Oriental from an Australian fauna, the land mollusks are unaware
of such matters. There is basically a single fauna of land snail
taxa that extends in very gradually diminishing numbers from
Southeast Asia to the Solomon Islands." So large and varied
as it is, Indonesia has many landsnail species. Since landsnail
classification is based on internal anatomy, empty shells are
difficult to identify.
Spent a night in Singapore to recover from the long air flight.
Made time to visit the Botanical Garden -- a good place for
snail collecting because of the watering. On the ground under
trees were dead Asperitas shells. This is a Southeast Asian
helicoid genus of large (over 25mm) shells, usually with one
or more spiral bands and many species. My Singapore specimens
are without a spiral band. I have not, as yet, determined the
species. Collected with Asperitas were Bradybaena similaris
and Subulina octona. These two "tropical tramps" are
widespread throughout most tropical and warm temperate regions.
They are spread by commerce and, consequently, are found near
human habitation and port cities. B. similaris is native to
China and is characterized by its 12-16mm flattened cream-colored
shell, usually with a thin brown peripheral spiral line. The
other "tropical tramp" is a 10-15mm elongated, almost
spindle-shaped shell with a lemon-yellow animal. The introduced
60-80mm African landsnail Achatina fulica with its solid, high-spired
shell and irregular brown and cream blotches and zig-zag stripes
was also present. It was introduced throughout tropical Asia
as a food source. It has subsequently spread to Hawaii and was
recently reported from Martinique in the Caribbean. It readily
eats crops and is the biggest-sized and economically the most
important landsnail pest in the world.
Bali is overwhelming, hard to describe. It has many people,
great activity, temples, dragons, masks, kites, and bright colors.
Hinduism is strongest in Bali and diminishes eastward. There
are flower-filled offering dishes in front of the shops and
even at the entrances to individual hotel rooms. In Bali there
are more shrines than houses. Each home has at least one shrine
which protects the house from the volcano.
On the southern peninsula of Bali, across
the road from the hotel, is a limestone quarry. Explored the
area and found, walking on the foliage and the branches of smooth-barked
trees, A. fulica, the helicoid Asperitas rareguttata forma crebiguttata,
and tall, brightly colored Amphidromus perversus. The Asperitas
species, with its single brown stripe, in a native to the Indonesian
island of Flores, but has been introduced to Bali. Amphidromus,
with sinistral and dextral shells, is one of the most colorful
landsnail genera. Its spiral and radial color patterns are on
an enamel-like shell surface. Native to Southeast Asia, it has
many species endemic to specific islands. A. perversus are sinistrally
and dextrally coiled in about equal numbers. I was told that
Achatina does not damage the rice crop but is killed and fed
After boarding the ship in Bali, our first stop was the large
island of Sumbawa, dominated by the great Tambora volcano. In
1815 Tambora produced the largest eruption in history, even
greater than the 1883 eruption of Krakatoa. We used zodiaks
from the ship and waded ashore to a beach. Landing at the small
village of Kananga on the Tambora Peninsula, we visited the
school and fish hatchery. Because the village has a strong Muslim
influence, women were asked to dress conservatively, i.e., shoulders
and thighs (and everything in between) should be covered.
Spent the afternoon a short distance from
Katanga on Satonda Island. The island is a volcano which was
active until the 1815 eruption of Tambora. Apparently Tambora
pulled the magma from Satonda, causing the summit to collapse.
The result is a brackish crater lake. Above the lake shore is
a sacred banyan tree. If you make a petition, hang a rock from
a shrub at the lake shore, swim in the lake, and spend the night
there, your petition will be granted. Since I couldn't spend
the night, I searched for landsnails, unsuccessfully.
The island of Komodo is much larger (130 square miles) and more
rugged ( to 2,400 feet) than I had anticipated. The Komodo dragons
are the largest lizards on earth -- almost 10 feet long and
weighing 330 lbs. Presently, they are found only on the islands
of Komodo and nearby Padar and Rinca, and on the western coast
of Flores Island. It is interesting that these regions were
also free of recent volcanic activity. Could volcanic action
be the cause of the dragons' restricted range?
Since July, the park rangers have not
been feeding the dragons, because the authorities want the dragons
to hunt their own food. Consequently, some of the dragons are
still waiting at the feeding site. The island is dry; its hills
are bare, but there are trees and shrubs in the valley areas
where the dragons are found. The rangers accompanied us as "protection,"
each carrying a forked stick to fend off any dragons we encountered.
One ranger led and the other brought up the rear. We are fortunate
the dragons are docile because I don't think a forked stick
is going to deter a six-foot 300-lb carnivorous lizard.
Along the wooded path were many empty
shells of the two endemic subspecies of Amphidromus, the spirally
banded A. poecilochrous candidus and the both radially and spirally
patterned A. p. jaeckeli. Both subspecies are sinistrally coiled.
I searched unsuccessfully for dextral shells. I wonder why Komodo
has only sinistral ones? At a dragon nest site there were shell
fragments of the spirally-banded tree snail, Asperitas colorata
komodoensis; the dragons occasionally eat them. Further along
I was fortunate to photograph live specimens of these and also
of Amphidromus poecilochrous candidus, another tree dweller.
The Asperitus was in a rotted hole in a tree and the Amphidromus
was on a tree trunk; both animals were about five feet above
the ground. The snails of both genera were abundant inland in
the valleys but absent within a few hundred yards of the coast,
perhaps because of a lack of trees near the coast.
Spent the afternoon at the Pink Beach
on the east side of Komodo. The pink color is due to broken
bits of organ-pipe coral. I walked up on the ridge looking for
snails but the lack of trees rendered my search unsuccessful.
When I returned to the beach the ship had set up an ice cream
stand there, serving three flavors and eleven toppings -- an
example of the hard life on a tropical island. Fortunately,
the dragons haven't tasted ice cream yet.
We now left the volcanic islands and headed south to Savu, a
remnant of a former continental region. The low grassy island
produces highly prized miniature horses. Made a wet landing
on a long, steep, sandy beach. We were welcomed by the chief
and horsemen dressed in their traditional Ikat clothes. The
people are very handsome except for their teeth and lips which
are stained by betel juice.
This is a one-economy island, an economy
based on the lontar palm. It produces wood for construction
and leaves for weaving, thatching, and making musical instruments.
The tree also produces a sugar-rich sap which is boiled and
made into palm sugar, as well as a refreshing sweet drink, and
even wine. A man climbed a lontar palm and collected some of
the sugary sap. Previously prepared sap was poured into lotar
leaf cups. It tasted refreshing with a slight lemon flavor and
was slightly carbonated. The boiling made it thicker than 7-Up.
After more dances we inspected the Ikat weaving.
Took a ride in the back of a truck, with
a hole in the floor, to see the sacred stones about a mile or
more inland. These stones are on the crest of a hill overlooking
the coastal area. They are four feet in diameter, circular,
but flat on top and about a foot thick. They are composed of
a different rock than the rest of the area. When asked about
the origin of the stones, they answered, "They were spirited
here." On a terrace about thirty feet above sea level under
a banyan tree, I found empty shells of Rhagada cf. solorensi
and Chloritis agrillacea. The Rhagada is a 15mm depressed shell
with multiple brown spiral stripes and a thickened lip. The
only Indonesian species I found in the literature is from Solor
Island in East Flores. My specimen may be a range extension
or possibly a new species. Chloritis is a genus with many Indonesian
species. Mine has a 20mm light-brown helicoid shell.
Alor - Takpala Village
Sailing northeast, we arrived at the most eastern point on our
journey, the island of Alor. The Alor people have negroid features
and fuzzy hair. The men look much more threatening than at Savu,
but then they were cannibals until 1960! After a short welcome
ceremony in the port, we rode buses to the north coast traditional
hillside village of Takpala. Here we were greeted by "friendly"
natives with spears. They charged at us as we walked into the
village. We were told that this was to impress us but that we
were welcome -- they would have thrown the spears if we were
not welcome! They did some traditional dances which were very
Kakabia is a small (a mile or less in diameter) island in the
middle of the Flores Sea. Took a zodiak ride around the island
looking at the bird life. Saw frigate birds, brown boobies,
tropic birds, etc. Landed and collected some specimens of the
"tropical tramp," Lamellaxis gracilis. This elongated
species, originally from India, is considered the most widely
distributed landsnail in the world. It is related to Subulina
octona which is also a detritus feeder and has a lemon-yellow
animal. They are both in the same family but can be distinguished
by the columella. In Lamellaxis the columella is straight, while
in Subulina it is truncated. Seems strange to find these introduced
species on such a remote and tiny island.
Travelling westward, we arrived off the coast of Kabaena Island
at the entrance to the Bonerate Gulf of Sulawesi. On arrival
at the pier we were met by an elementary school band. Their
instruments were made of bamboo -- they even had a sliding "trombone."
The music sounded like a calliope. The envoy of the Sultan greeted
us and led us to the Sultan. We then had a welcome ceremony
and dances. Walked around the village of 27,000, including the
stilt village of the Sea Gypsies. Walked on a rickety bamboo
path to visit a Gypsy home. Left my shoes outside before entering,
and enjoyed their hospitality.
Across from Kabaena Island is the small
flat coral island of Sogori. Walking along the shore, saw a
live volute with its brown mantle edged in yellow, foot-long
brown sea cucumbers, moon snail egg cases, and a brittle star.
Sulawesi -- Nanggala Village
Sulawesi is the current name for the Celebes. Our destination
was Toragaland in the inland valley west of the port city of
Palopo. Toragaland is as distinctive as any place I've visited.
From a distance the parabolic house roofs resemble arks floating
in a sea of tropical foliage. The eaves curve upward, like the
prow and stern of a ship, projecting dramatically beyond the
ends of the house. Interlocking layers of split bamboo covered
with flat strips of pounded bamboo form the roof and act like
a thousand sloping gutters to keep the house snug and dry during
The house front had the curved wooden
head of a water buffalo -- symbol of wealth -- attached to it.
Below the painted white head ranged a set of panels depicting
entire buffaloes, some black, some spotted. Buffaloes are ranked
according to color. Piebald buffaloes are the most valuable,
worth ten to twenty times the price of an ordinary black animal.
The pink buffalo with white hair and china blue eyes is the
Sulawesi -- Lemo Village
A few minutes' ride from Nanggala is Lemo, a silent cliff of
death. The cliff is impressive because, standing like spectators
are wide-eyed "doubles" leaning on railings like sports
fans, on the balconies of a condo. When a new corpse is buried
in a cliff tomb, his life-size double takes its place in the
rock gallery. The "doubles" with sleepless eyes are
fully dressed and often provided with travelling sacks for their
trip to the land of souls.
At the base of the limestone cliffs were
dead shells of Cyclophorus politus (the only operculate snail
I saw), Hemiplecta wichmanni, and Planispira bulbulus. This
Cyclophorus has a 20mm rapidly expanding shell with a wide umbilicus,
rounded aperture, and an apex which does not project above the
depressed shell. The Hemiplecta has a beautiful, greenish, 40mm,
depressed, fragile shell. In contrast, Planispira is a 35mm
solid discoidal shell with a reflexed lip.
Salayar -- Pasi
Anchored off Pasi Island. Most people went snorkeling. Four
of us went to the beach a little distance from the village.
Our leader told us we were probably the first white people to
arrive here in a long time. Children met us on the beach. I
said good morning in Indonesian and they stepped back in surprise.
Then they smiled and approached. They followed the three beachcombers
which allowed me to leave the beach and inspect the inland vegetation.
It was mostly palm and a few spiny shrubs. Under new palm fronds,
found a Bradybaena similaris and Lamellaxis gracilis. Took a
litter sample which has yielded many microscopic species.
Along the beach, saw chocolate chip sea
star and the sea urchin Diadema setosum. Offshore are large
permanent arrow-shaped fish traps, some a block wide, made of
bamboo. The traps point away from the beach. When fish encounter
a barrier, they turn into deeper water. Utilizing this principle,
the natives construct the traps so the fish cannot escape. The
natives wait until low tide, wade to the traps, and pick up
Sabalana Atoll -- Laija Island
Our last stop was the Sabalana Atoll. The captain picked out
the tiny island Laija as our landing site. The island has a
long sandspit on the east and palm trees on the west with a
maximum elevation of 10-15 feet. There are about four or five
stilt houses in a cluster on the north side. Using the zodiaks,
we landed on the sand spit. There was pumice at the high water
line. I liked to imagine it was from Krakatoa or Tambora. At
the connection of the spit to the island there was a saltwater
lagoon. Made a transect across the island and down its length.
This was a "friendly" island without thorn bushes.
It was the only unthorny place we visited. Snail collecting
was poor. The island had marine snails under the trees inland
-- I imagine it is frequently under seawater. Near the houses,
found several large marine shells of Telescopium telescopium
among the ashes of a fire pit. The animals were probably eaten
by the locals.
What did I learn from the trip? Large snails occur on large
islands and small snails occur on small islands, introduced
snails can occur anywhere, dragons do exist, and people are
friendly all over the world.
Alfred Russel Wallace. In 1858, Wallace and Charles Darwin,
simultaneously and quite independently, published the Theory
of Evolution. Wallace's Line follows a course of deep water
running southwest from just south of the Philippine island of
Mindanao, between Borneo and Celebes and down through the Lombok
Strait to divide Bali from the island of Lombok. During the
Pleistocene, when water levels were low, all the land north
and west of the Wallace Line was a single large peninsula, across
which species could move freely. Even today, these areas, now
islands, share many of the same species.